Multistakeholder Initiatives as Panacea for the Unsustainable Fashion Industry? Examining the potential contribution of these initiatives towards Just Transitions.

Abstract

Introduction This study examines the potential contribution of multistakeholder initiatives (MSIs) towards Just Transitions (JTs) in the fashion industry. This industry is known for its unsustainable character, harming the environment and workers across the supply chain. This underscores the need for JTs, where not only the environment, but also workers are protected. To achieve JTs, collaboration between various actors is necessary. As such, this research assesses the contribution that collaborative platforms such as MSIs can make towards JTs. The specific focus is put on the contribution they can make towards improving the livelihoods of garment workers, since they hold a vulnerable position in the supply chain. Before going into the specific contribution these MSIs can make, this research starts with examining the impact of sustainability transitions on these workers. Theory Since MSI and JT theories have never been used in the same study before, this research drafted a novel framework specifically combining Burke’s (2022) criterions for the future of JTs and Mena & Palazzo’s (2012) MSI input and output legitimacy framework. This final framework was specified to fit the context of garment workers operating in the fashion industry. Methods This research uses multiple research methods and multiple units of analysis. The impact of sustainability transitions on garment workers has been assessed by means of desk research and qualitative interviews with five experts. The contribution of MSIs towards JTs have been, by means of the drafted framework, examined through five expert interviews and by conducting a document analysis on four MSI cases, respectively the Fair Wear Foundation, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Fair Labour Association and Ethical Trading Initiative. Results The results indicate that the current impact of sustainability transitions of garment workers is not clear and limited. The expert interviews on MSIs and case studies highlight that the overall contribution towards JTs is inadequate. Specifically, the inclusion of garment workers in terms of decision-making and the effectiveness of MSIs in safeguarding and protecting garment workers’ rights are limited and unclear. Discussion and Conclusion This thesis adds to the literature on the relative effectiveness of Multistakeholder Initiatives (MSIs) by integrating MSI and Just Transition (JT), providing a novel perspective. In addition, it provides an insight into the potential impact of sustainability transitions of garment workers, but more research is necessary in this area. Overall, this research recommends that MSIs should be reformed to make a meaningful contribution towards JTs.