| dc.description.abstract | The fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, while second-hand
clothing (SHC) consumption is frequently promoted as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion.
However, actual substitution of brand-new clothing (BNC) with SHC remains limited. Existing
literature often focuses on motivations for SHC use but lacks insight into the behavioural
mechanisms that explain when and why SHC fails to replace new purchases. This research
investigates what causes insufficient substitution behaviour, when SHC does not fully replace
BNC in consumers’ wardrobes, leading to an increase in overall clothing consumption at a
micro-level in the Netherlands. It aims to identify both the drivers and barriers that influence
whether consumers replace new clothing purchases with SHC, contributing to the theoretical
and practical understanding of sustainable consumption behaviour. This is done by exploring
the research question: What causes insufficient substitution consumer behaviour at the micro-
level of second-hand clothing consumption in the Netherlands?
A qualitative study was conducted with 17 SHC consumers in Amsterdam, using the
COM-B model as a framework. Semi-structured interviews and thematic analysis identified
behavioural patterns linked to substitution. Findings show that substitution behaviour is mainly
opportunity-driven, with availability, accessibility, and convenience acting as key drivers or
barriers. Capability developed over time, as consumers gained experience and confidence in
finding satisfactory SHC. Motivations like sustainability, affordability, and uniqueness
supported, but rarely drove, substitution when contextual barriers were present. Substitution
was higher for categories like trousers and outerwear, possibly due to fit, durability, or brand
familiarity. Despite consumers’ sustainable intentions, their behaviour was inconsistent due to
habits, emotional attachment to BNC, and social pressures. The research concludes that
insufficient SHC substitution is not due to a lack of sustainable attitudes but rather a complex
interaction of limited opportunities, evolving capabilities, and context-dependent motivations.
This extends current theoretical understanding by applying the COM-B model to SHC
consumption, showing that consumers’ capability to substitute SHC for new clothing develops
over time. Next to that, systemic barriers, such as limited availability or platform convenience,
often prevent sustainable intentions from translating into action. Recommendations include
investing in local SHC infrastructure, improving accessibility of digital platforms, and designing
interventions tailored to specific clothing categories and consumer behaviours. | |
